Showing posts with label Maharashtra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maharashtra. Show all posts

Saturday, September 7, 2013

Neelkantheshwar: A Perfect Monsoon Getaway





Where’s Neelkantheshwar located?

Neelkantheshwar is located on the outskirts of Pune at a distance of 15 k.m. from Khadakwasla dam.


What’s unique about Neelkantheshwar?
 
Apart from the Shiva temple (after which the place is named), the view from top is truly breathtaking. One gets to see the backwaters of all three dams - Khadakwasla, Panshet and Varasgaon. These dams supply water to Pune. Also, along with the temple this place has many statues which depict Indian mythological scenes.


Route Please!
 
Once you start nearing Khadakwasla from Pune, instead of driving straight towards the Khadakwasla Chowpatti, take a right. You will come across a new bridge built on the waters of the Khadakwasla Dam. Take the bridge and go ahead. You will pass the backwaters of Khadakwasla and a few villages on the way. Ask a few village men around and they’ll guide you to the Neelkantheshwar base.



How do I get there?
 
Car / Two-Wheeler + Trek

P.S: The roads are pretty good to travel by two-wheeler as well.


What’s the best time to visit Neelkantheswar?


Monsoons (From June to September)
For photography purposes, August and September is ideal as there’s less rain to protect your gear from. The clouds are nice and fluffy with a hint of sunlight unlike in June or July when it’ll be overcast and raining heavily.


How’s the terrain?
 
The terrain is mountainous with hills on all sides and a valley in between.


And the weather?


The weather is beautifully pleasant. Expect some rain and blinding fog too


What should I carry?


   1.       Rain Jacket  

   2.       Camera with proper rain protection

   3.       Water

   4.       Food (Preferably lunch as there’s hardly anything available there)

Travel Tale:

The last I discovered any place before Neelkantheshwar was Jaipur in January. After six and a half months the wanderer in me was hungry and restless. And my camera, devoid of any good photography lay locked up in a disturbing stupor. My computer had a folder called ‘Monsoon Outings’ which lay empty too. July was coming to an end. Every time I glanced at it, my mind clouded with guilt and distaste. A part of me was unhappy and disturbed while the other part was busy enjoying the highs of a first job!

This continued for a while. I had few difficult decisions to make which included letting go of a few things and catching up on to a few newer ones. Till date I look back and wonder if I’d taken the right step and till date I don’t know the answer to it. What I know is that had I not, just like a traveller taken that risk, hadn’t done that free fall; I wouldn’t have landed down to write this. :)

***

One day my Uncle who too is a photography enthusiast rang me up and said he needs to go somewhere. It seemed like we both were sailing in the same boat. Asking around a few people for interesting places to go to, we planned a day’s outing to Neelkantheshwar.
We started from home at 8 a.m (which is pretty late, as early as possible is recommended) and reached the bridge near Khadakwasla dam. On the way we passed a lot of people cycling and jogging along the path. Cycling to Khadakwasla from all the way to Pune! I took a mental note of it as a thing to do sometime in life. :D

As soon as we drove on to that small bridge, we stopped. The morning beauty and the gurgling water flowing towards the city to satiate the thirst of Punekars looked stunning. The dam walls were hardly any distance away and the shimmering sun on the splashing water felt like a wonderful refreshment to re-start my wandering with.



We continued ahead to greet a whiff of fresh wind and the Khadakwasla backwaters. We asked a passer-by if we were on the right route to Neelkantheswar. He nodded. Moving upwards in the hilly terrain felt like rising above all the trivial things in life. A green hill here, a verdant vast meadow there, we journeyed, stopping at every sight that lured us.

 

We occasionally passed a few villagers and also came across a small wayside eatery that served hot bhajjis and chai. At a point there was a large hillock with a flat top besides us. We got out and climbed up to see a breathtaking view of the three dams. The gust of the wind was felt at the highest here and my Uncle ended up getting a few blurred pictures as he just couldn’t steady his light point and shoot camera.

 
With a lot of amazement in heart towards the kind of beauty the world holds and some good photographs in our cameras we reached the base of Neelkantheshwar.


Paying the old man for the parking ticket we began our hike. We were told it’s an half an hour climb. The climb is not a difficult one. It begins with a few steps and ends with another few. But one has to tread along an uphill slope all the time in between. People who don’t work out regularly might get out of breath but it’s not tiring, only beautiful. For you stop at every turn and bending to take in the breathtaking view that looms in front of your eyes. There’s dense greenery on your left and a picturesque valley on your right. The clouds are thick and low. Every time you stop the blowing wind fills your lungs and dries every bead of sweat. It’s inexplicable!
 

For me the trek was an introspective excursion - meditative and rhythmic. With every step, I was shedding the six month confinement rust. With every step I was getting higher and happier. As we approached the top it started pouring. We sat on the steps for a while to muse.


There was a Shiva temple in a dark dungeon like place. It smelled of incense. 





After stopping there for blessings we walked a few steps around the temple to reach a cliff. The fog was thick and the ferns swayed to the wind. In that, the clouds shifted a bit and we saw a glimpse of the three river's backwaters all at the same time...that very moment or a few seconds later it started pouring heavily. I opened my hands wide and tilted my face towards the sky absorbing the pelting rain.


 Some more glimpses from the trip:







(As written on 22nd Aug '13)





Sunday, July 1, 2012

Waari: Facts and Fotos


> Waari, is one of the largest and the longest on-foot pilgrimages in this entire world.



> This tradition is about 700 hundred years old.

> About a million people walk a 250 km route for 21 days from Dehu (carrying Sant Tukaram’s Palkhi or palanquin) or from Alandi(carrying Sant Dnyaneshwar’s Palkhi) and reach Pandharpur on Ashadi-Ekadashi, where the Vitthoba temple is situated on the banks of river Bhima.

The Palkhi of Sant Tukaram with his 'Padukas' or footprints in it.

 > Vitthal or Panduranga is an incarnation of Lord Vishnu and hence an avatar of Krishna.

>The people who follow this pilgrimage are known as ‘Waarkaris’ and they usually belong to the Vaishnav sect, although any one is free to join the Waari. It is said that the Waari dissolves all the differences between people like caste, creed, profession, rich and poor.

A vagabond fortune teller

Baby Mauli

A female Waarkari clapping on the beats of Abhangas sung



A group of children proceeding with the Palkhi


>The Waarkaris call each other 'Mauli' while talking which literally means God. It's as if they are talking to the God in one another.

Mauli


>The Waarkaris wear a U shaped tilak/naam with one black dot and one orange dot on their forehead. This is known as ‘Ashvagandha Gopichand Bukka



>The Waarkaris travel in different groups, one after the other. These groups are known as ‘Dindis’.



>The Waarkaris sing abhangas, kirtans and devotional songs all along, praising Panduranga/Vitthal, Sant Dnyaneshwar and Sant Tukaram.

A Waarkari singing and dancing!

The Taal

The Dholak


>The Waarkaris either carry the saffron flag or musical instruments like the cymbal, the mrudung, the dhol,  the taal and the tutari. The women Waarkaris balance the Tulsi plant (Holy Basil plant) or a water pitcher on top of their head throughout the journey. Waarkaris also carry their bear belongings in a make-do jhola which is strung against their shoulder or balanced atop their heads. That’s the closest they can get to backpacking!


With the Veena


Orange flags


A women carrying a Tulsi Vrindavan
 
>There is a sense of unity, group psychology and lightness as these Waarkaris proceed singing and dancing. The exuberance and sheer euphoria swallows their tiredness and sorrows. Their souls are at peace. All the worries and materialistic joys are discarded to embrace peace of mind, body and soul.

Sporting an Orange Turban



>As they pass through various towns, halting for the night, natives of those towns and villages provide them with food. They like eating simple meals like the traditional Zhunka-Bhakar and bananas in between breaks.



>It is said that smaller towns and villages experience a huge turnover during Waari and the amount earned is enough for them to survive the entire year.

The Balloon Seller

The Business Bubble Boy

>Pandharpur is so crowded, two days before Ashadi-Ekadashi that steps of shops and homes or even a small place in a veranda are rented out for exorbitant prices for the Waarkaris to spend the night. 

Carrying Sant Dnyaneshwar's Idol


A lot of foreigners and people from other states flock the Waari



>Waari is magical in its own sense. It’s a huge jashn (celebration) for lakhs of bhakts (devotees) coming together willingly to immerse themselves in spirituality.